OCE-9504198 The investigators will examine physical and theoretical relationships among physical processes, sediment transport and morphology across shoreface, which might lead to understanding of storm-dominated vs. swell-dominated shorefaces. This will involve detailed examination of time-series of morphology and concentration of inner shelf sediments. Deployment of acoustic instruments that are better capable of quantifying cross-shore transport are proposed for both storm and swell-dominated shorefaces. Models will be modified to account for cross-shorface sediment and fluid motion which recognize the simultaneous contribution of both wave and wind forcing.
